1.31.2010

Beautiful Pavlova

PAVLOVA
Blueberry, Raspberry, and Blackberry
in Chai Lavender Syrup
Greek Yogurt and Mint

ANNA PAVLOVA
In the Fokine/Saint-Saëns
The Dying Swan
Saint Petersburg, 1905

Anna Pavlova (February 12, 1881 – January 23, 1931) was a Russian ballerina of the late 19th and the early 20th century.

She is widely regarded as one of the most famous and popular classical ballet dancers in history. Pavlova is most recognized for the creation of the role The Dying Swan. She would become the first ballerina to tour ballet around the world.

Inspired by swans that she had seen in public parks and Alfred, Lord Tennyson's poem "The Dying Swan," Anna Pavlova asked Michel Fokine to create a solo ballet for her for a 1905 concert. Fokine suggested Saint-Saëns's cello solo, Le Cygne, as the work's musical basis and Pavlova agreed.



Years later, while touring in The Hague, Netherlands, Pavlova was told that she had pleurisy and needed an operation. She was also told that she would never be able to dance again if she had this operation. She refused to have the operation saying "If I can't dance then I'd rather be dead."

Three weeks later she died of pleurisy, just short of her 50th birthday. She was holding her costume from The Dying Swan when she spoke her last words, "Play the last measure very softly."

In accordance with old ballet tradition, on the day she was to have next performed, the show went on as scheduled, with a single spotlight circling an empty stage where she would have been.


Pavlova is a meringue-based dessert named after Ánna Pávlova.

The dessert is believed to have been created to honor the dancer during one of her tours to Australia and New Zealand in the 1920s. Exactly where it was created, and the nationality of its creator, have been a source of argument between the two nations for many years. (from wikipedia here and here)

Making Pavlova
Beat 3 large egg whites with 1/8 t. cream of tartar at medium speed until frothy. Beat in 3/4 c. sugar, one tablespoon at a time.

The meringue should be thick and glossy.

Spoon the meringue onto a baking sheet lined with parchment paper.


Use the back of a spoon to make wells or indentations in the meringue to hold the yogurt. Bake in a 250° oven for one hour. Then turn off the oven and let cool in the oven for one hour.

Lavender
Allison harvests lavender from my yard the night before.

Combine 1/2 c. sugar with 1/2 c. water in a sauce pan, bring to a boil then remove from heat. Add a Chai tea bag and 1/4 t. lavender buds. Let stand 10 minutes, then strain into a bowl. Let cool then toss berries in the syrup.

We filled the meringues with non-fat Greek yogurt, then topped with berries, syrup and fresh mint. Most pavlovas are topped with whipped cream, but since we used non-fat Greek yogurt, this dessert falls into the heart-healthy category. No fat, no cholesterol, and healthful anti-oxidants in the berries too, it makes a gorgeous wholesome dessert for entertaining.

We served this dessert at our Porchetta Party. Light and airy and refreshing, it was a beautiful complement to our dinner.


I want to extend a special thank you to my dear friend Chef Allison for preparing the pavlovas. They were absolutely stunning!

This delightful recipe was inspired by one in Food & Wine Magazine February 2010 issue, or can be found on-line here.

1.24.2010

Foodbuzz 24, 24, 24: Porchetta Party, Baby!

Porchetta with Pan Sauce

The old gang is together again, this time for a PORCHETTA PARTY, BABY! Father Adam and I fell in love with porchetta at the Foodbuzz Festival in San Francisco and have been craving it ever since. The folks at Foodbuzz invited us to participate in their 24, 24, 24 event this month which showcases posts from 24 Foodbuzz Featured Publisher bloggers, highlighting 24 unique meals occurring around the globe during a 24-hour period.

The timing could not have been more perfect. Father Adam recently relocated to Southern California, and our dear friend Chef Allison is visiting from Washington, so we decided to throw a Porchetta Party, inviting our old friends who we worked with in the restaurant industry during the 1980's. We were restaurant chefs, managers, waiters, and bartenders - all with fond memories of the business.

pork + restaurant people = party!


menu
porchetta pecan salad, yuzu garlic dressing
porchetta with pan sauce
pickled fennel
roasted root vegetables, white truffle oil
pavlova with mixed berries, chai lavender syrup


BRISTOL FARMS MARKET
I pre-ordered a pork shoulder butt from Bristol Farms in Rolling Hills, California the week before our event from their butcher, Shawn.

Shawn waited until I arrived to cut the pork shoulder to my specifications.

Shawn's skills were impressive.

Removing the leg bone.

The prepared butterflied pork shoulder with skin!

I had intended to leave Bristol Farms with a 4 pound roast, but this butterflied shoulder weighed 14 lbs. Shawn graciously offered to cut it into smaller portions but I said, "No way!" I'll take the fourteen pounds...and the extra skin and bone! We made 2 porchetta roasts and froze the remaining 5 lbs. of meat for another party in the future.

LATER THAT NIGHT
Once I got that baby home and in the refrigerator, I dashed off to LAX airport to pick up Allison. We would be prepping into the night to get ready for the Porchetta Party!

First, Allison harvested some fruit from my yuzu tree.

Then we prepared the herb seasoning using a recipe similar to Judy Rodger's in her excellent Zuni Cafe Cookbook.
  • capers
  • yuzu zest (Rodgers uses lemon)
  • garlic
  • fresh sage
  • fresh rosemary
  • fennel seeds
  • cracked black pepper

The pork is salted and the seasoning mixture is pressed into the meat. The pork butt is reformed into its natural shape.

Allison ties up the roast with kitchen twine (swine-twine). Black pepper and fennel seeds are rubbed on the outside.

A masterpiece!
Refrigerate overnight (or up to 3 days).

PARTY TIME
Tori and Tom arrived in time to help prepare the salad, first by toasting the pecans.

Yuzu Garlic Salad Dressing
  • 1/4 c. fresh yuzu juice
  • 1 c. extra virgin olive oil
  • 2 t. fresh yuzu zest
  • 2 cloves garlic, minced
  • sea salt
  • fresh ground pepper
Put all ingredients into a jar and shake vigorously.

Porchetta Pecan Salad

Julienned Porchetta, Chopped Toasted Pecans
Yuzu Garlic Dressing
Baby Heirloom Tomatoes
Roasted Garlic Onion Jam Crostini

PORCHETTA TIME!
Such a beautiful roast! (We learned it is pronounced porketta). We seared the entire outside of the roast in a hot roasting pan. Then placed a rack in that same pan, placed the roast on the rack, cooking in a 350° oven until the internal temperature reached 140°. The roast rested, tented with foil, while the pan sauce was prepared.

Pork Stock
  • Pork Leg Bone
  • Onion
  • Carrot
  • Celery
  • Bay Leaves
  • Parsley
Roast the bone, onion, celery and carrot until caramelized. Transfer to a stock pot, cover with water, boil, add bay leaves and parsley. Reduce heat and simmer for a few hours.

IT'S DONE!
Allison, Father Adam, and Lori Lynn marvel at the roast!

Pan Sauce

Skim fat from drippings in roasting pan. Deglaze pan with vermouth, scraping up the browned bits. Add homemade pork stock (from stock pot). Reduce by half. Strain. Return to a sauce pan and thicken with flour. Adjust seasonings.

TABLE SETTING
CELEBRATING THE PIG!


Wine with Swine
  • MarkHAM Chardonnay - Napa Valley 2006
  • Cambria Julia's Vineyard - Santa Maria Valley Pinot Noir 2007
  • Vieux Chateau Perey - Saint Emilion Grand Cru 2005
Porcine Porte-couteaux!

Happy Together!
Tori, Lori Lynn & Allison

Paparazzo


Saucing the Plate

Porchetta and Pan Sauce

Tom and Father Adam pose with pork.

Pickled Fennel
  • 1 1/2 c. white balsamic vinegar
  • 3/4 c. sugar
  • 1 cinnamon stick
  • 1/2 t. black peppercorns
  • 2 star anise
  • 1 T. pickling spice
Combine all ingredients in a sauce pan, boil then simmer for 20 minutes, strain, and pour liquid over 2 thinly sliced fennel bulbs. Let come to room temperature. Cover and refrigerate overnight.

Roasted Vegetables with White Truffle Oil
Roasted Root Vegetables
  • Golden Beets
  • Turnips
  • Rutabaga
  • Celeriac
  • Baby Red Potatoes
  • Carrots
Peel and cut vegetables in a large dice. Toss with olive oil, salt and pepper. Roast in a single layer at 400°F until caramelized and tender.

Garnish with White Truffle Oil

DESSERT
Pavlova with Mixed Berries
Non-Fat Greek Yogurt
Chai Lavender Syrup

Porchetta + Pavlova = Paradise

Please stop by Taste With the Eyes later this week for the Phenomenal Pavlova recipe!

THE FOLLOWING DAY
Porchetta and Aebleskiver Brunch
Fresh Pineapple Juice Mimosas

Porchetta and Apple Aebleskiver

More about aebleskivers later this week on Taste With The Eyes.

Leftover Porchetta Roast

Reheat porchetta in a sauté pan and serve with aebleskivers and pineapple mimosas.

(we're not done yet)

THE FOLLOWING NIGHT
Porchetta Panini

Panini filled with Shaved Porchetta
with Yuzu Ricotta and Pickled Fennel
Pork Jus

Pork Cracklin' Snacks

THE SWINE IS DIVINE
"Porchetta, Yum!"