Taste With The Eyes: Saint Albray

8.06.2009

Saint Albray - Cheese of the Month

Mélange de Haricots

Toasted Walnuts

Walnut Dijon Vinaigrette

Saint Albray Cheese

SAINT ALBRAY

Made with pasteurized cow's milk from the Jurançon in the Pyrénées- Atlantiques, ripened for two weeks and formed into a shape similar to that of a flower with each "petal" forming a half pound of cheese. The six "petals" are centered around a disk which, when removed, creates a hollow center resembling the center of the flower. For more information about St. Albray, and some excellent recipes, please visit Ile de France.

Saint Albray has a distinctive taste. During the aging process, St. Albray develops the hearty, robust flavor of a traditional washed-rind cheese. It has a rich aroma and a creamy flavor that can be enhanced by eating it with its ginger/reddish-white rind. I especially like the intriguing aroma, and highly-recommend eating that rind!

Warm Leek and Saint Albray Salad

Walnut Dijon Vinaigrette

Candied Walnuts

Basil Garnish

Leeks are tied together to keep their shape, then cooked in boiling water about 15 minutes until tender. Drain and slice, arrange on plate. Drizzle walnut dijon vinaigrette over warm leeks. Add slices of St. Albray and candied walnuts, basil chiffonade as garnish. This recipe was inspired by a terrific cookbook: Bistro Laurent Tourondel, New American Bistro Cooking.

Walnut Dijon Vinaigrette: Minced Shallot and Garlic, Dijon Mustard, Sherry Vinegar, Walnut Oil, Salt and Pepper.

Rosé made a nice summer pairing with this leek salad.

Artisan Lettuces

Petite Oak - Tender and mellow

Petite Tango - Curly leaf similar to mild arugula or endive

(Green is slightly sweet, red is slightly bitter)

Petite Gem - firm and crunchy with mild sweet flavor

(more on Artisan Lettuce here)

St. Albray on Warm Baguette

Artisan Lettuce Salad

Next time you are looking for an esoteric cheese for your cheese platter, as an alternative to the ubiquitous Brie, give St. Albray a try!

Julia Child Quotes - TOUJOURS BON APPETIT!

“You should never apologize at the table. People will think, ‘Yes, it’s really not so good.'"

"In France, cooking is a serious art form and a national sport."

"It's easy to get the feeling that you know the language just because when you order a beer they don't bring you oysters." Paul Child on speaking French

"I was 32 when I started cooking; up until then, I just ate. "

"Life itself is the proper binge."

"It was a Morsel of Perfection."

"I was in pure, flavorful heaven at the Cordon Bleu."

Julia Child sees herself on TV, July 1962, she saw room for improvement, and still she can say it was fun : "There I was, in black and white, a large woman sloshing eggs too quickly here, too slowly there, gasping, looking at the wrong camera while talking too loudly and so on...But it had been fun."

She has her own opinions on kitchen equipment: "Clairborne sniffed at our use of a garlic press, 'a gadget considered in some circles to be only one cut above garlic salt or garlic powder.' I happened to like garlic presses..."

Understanding Julia's captivation by French food: "This is the kind of food that I have fallen in love with: not trendy souped-up fantasies, just something very good to eat. It was classic French cooking, where the ingredients have been carefully selected and beautifully and knowingly prepared. Or, in the words of the famous gastronome Curnonsky, 'Food that tastes of what it is.' "

"You never forget a beautiful thing that you have made. Even after you eat it, it stays with you - always." Julia's instructor, Chef Bugnard at Le Cordon Bleu

"Oh, 'crise de foie,' that French sole was so delicious!"

Julia's passion comes through loud and clear as she describes a fish dish: "La Truite's true glory was the Sole a la Normande, a poem of poached and flavored sole fillets surrounded by oysters, and mussels, and napped with a wonder-sauce of wine, cream, and butter, and topped with fluted mushrooms. 'Voluptuous' was the word. I had never imagined that fish could be taken so seriously, or taste so heavenly."

Julia's unique way with words, on Crepes Suzette: "The creature named Suzette may or may not have been the mistress of the Prince of Wales, but whoever she was, she long ago inspired a magnificent dessert that is still one of our favorites."

"I am probably one of the few people around who saw the real Caesar Cardini making his salad. I was about 9 when my parents took me to his restaurant in Tijuana. They were so excited when big jolly Caesar himself came to the table to make the salad. And it was dramatic: I remember most clearly the eggs going in, and how he tossed the leaves so it looked like a wave turning over."

"With a handsome package such as Jacques's, you can neatly cut the top open at the table with a pair of scissors..." Julia on Salmon en Papillote

"There's no reason to be intimidated by the idea of making pâté. You can just think of it as meat loaf."

From Julia's dear friend Jacques Pepin, "You are what you cook."

"Understanding egg yolks will make you a master of hollandaise sauce."

Julia encouraging us not to be intimidated: "When you know how to saute your meat so it browns rather than steams, you're cooking. What's difficult about that? You heat the pan, you dry the meat, you don't crowd it into the pan, and you're browning it. Is that difficult?"

Food Quotes

"Ask not what you can do for your country. Ask what's for lunch."

Orson Welles

"Tell me what you eat, and I will tell you what you are."
Anthelme Brillat-Savarin

"Chefs, as a whole, say yes to any project, fundraiser, or tasting because they have such a generous spirit."
Charlie Trotter

"Once you understand the foundations of cooking - whatever kind you like, whether it's French or Italian or Japanese - you really don't need a cookbook anymore. "
Thomas Keller

"I love to make people happy."
Wolfgang Puck

"Fish sauce is to Vietnamese cooking as olive oil is to Italian."

The Little Saigon Cookbook by Ann Le

"I wish, I wish lunch could last forever...waiter, bring us one more bottle of wine..."

Jimmy Buffett

"My philosophy from day one is that I can sleep better at night if I can improve an individual's knowledge about food and wine, and do it on a daily basis."
Emeril Lagasse

"Gordon Ramsay makes me laugh because he knows that I'm not a chef."
Nigella Lawson

"You know, when you get your first asparagus, or your first acorn squash, or your first really good tomato of the season, those are the moments that define the cook's year. I get more excited by that than anything else."
Mario Batali

"I always knew the importance of it, since I was three or four years old my mother used to feed me wine and water. I grew up with wine as liquid food."
Robert Mondavi

"No one who cooks, cooks alone. Even at his/her most solitary, a cook in the kitchen is surrounded by generations of cooks past, the advice and menus of cooks present, and the wisdom of cookbook writers."
Laurie Colwin

"Food is a central part of our lives. It provides the body with fuel and raw materials for maintenance, growth, and repair. It draws together family and friends, anchors celebrations and rites of passage, and sometimes soothes the soul."
Ethan Becker